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Ideal for home improvements, craft projects, tables, bars, and many other finishes.

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One gallon of mixed epoxy will cover approximately 25 square feet at 1/16″ . When measuring include surfaces, edges, and an extra 2% for run off.

Although it is not possible to address every type of surface the following is a generic guideline:

Bare wood should be sealed with a thin coat of epoxy prior to flood coating.  Decoupage articles should be tested for color fastness prior to application.  When recoating an existing epoxy coating, the coating should be scuff sanded and cleaned with denatured alcohol.  Be sure that the surface and the epoxy to be mixed are at the same temperature.  Preferably 70-75 degrees F.

When recoating a previously painted surface, slight sanding to remove the gloss surface is required to give the epoxy something to attach to.   (Always wipe down the surface with denatured alcohol prior to recoating to remove all oils, greases, and other contaminants.

Mixing is the most important part of the project. Improper mixing will result in soft or tacky spots in the surface.

First be sure you are preparing to mix containers of the Hardener and Resin. The black top typically is the Hardener and the White top is the Resin. (If you are doing a large project, make sure you have a white cap and a black cap container. We have seen mistakes where applicators mixed black caps together, and white caps together. If this happens, the epoxy will never harden, and it is very difficult to remove.) Graduated mixing containers are recommended for measuring and mixing. (Remember this is a 1-1 mix. Adding more resin or hardener will prevent the epoxy from hardening.) Hand mixing with a paint stir stick is recommended. It is also recommended that you mix no more than two gallons at a time.

A two container mix is preferred. Pour the resin in first and the hardener last. Mix the epoxy in the first container, stirring very hard for 1-1/2 minutes, and scraping the sides and bottom of the container to make sure all the chemicals blend in with each other. Do not worry about the bubbles, they will come out. After mixing for approximately 1 -1/2 minutes in the first container, pour the entire contents into a second container, and scrape all the chemicals out of the first container. Mix the chemicals in the second container for 1-1/2 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom all the time. Mix hard, just stirring will not do the job.

After mixing the epoxy in the second container, pour the epoxy on your project. Move the epoxy around on the project using a notched trowel. The notched trowel will allow the epoxy to level out and makes it easier to spread over your project. (Note: DO NOT REUSE MIXING CONTAINERS. Use them once and throw them away.)

Klear Kote is a self leveling epoxy. Therefore, the surface of the project must be level for uniformity. The epoxy may be poured on the surface and spread with a plastic trowel, or a dust free foam brush. (Make sure the foam brush is a heavy density foam brush.) It is recommended that you apply no more than 1/8″ per coat. Thick films are achieved through multiple coats.

Once the epoxy is applied to the desired thickness, tiny air bubbles will appear on the surface. The bubbles can be removed with a propane torch. Make sure the torch has an adjustable flame, and set the flame very low. Pass the flame slowly over the entire project. Do not let the flame stop and heat up the epoxy, it will cause the finish to alligator, and bubble up. (Do not use a heat gun, or hair dryer). They only blow trash into the surface of the project and cause air bubbles. You can usually wait about 20 – 25 minutes after pouring to start the degassing process.

Cure time will vary with the temperature and thickness. Whitaker Klear Kote will be tack free in 1/8″ film at 77 degrees F. in approximately 8 hours. Ready for service in 24 hours.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Even though the film will appear hard the epoxy will not reach full cure for 14 days.

Therefore do not leave objects on the surface until fully cured. When used for bars or table tops, any hot items like coffee cups, hot plates, etc, over 140 degrees F. will leave an impression ring. This happens on most epoxy coatings. The use of saucers under cups and heat resistant pads under hot plates are recommended to preserve the finish.

Epoxies cure through chemical reaction. The chemical reaction generates heat, the greater the mass of the epoxy, the faster the reaction occurs. Pot life is measured about 4- Oz of epoxy @ 77 degrees F. Therefore a stated 40 minute pot life is for that 4 ounces. A – 1.5 gallon mix in a bucket will have only have a 10-15 minute pot life.

Epoxies will amber slightly when exposed to sunlight, or UV rays. Exterior applications will amber and chalk.
For exterior applications, a top coat with polyurethane with a UV inhibitor is recommended.

Blemishes caused by contaminants or insects can be sanded and recoated without ruing clarity.


  • Use Denatured Alcohol, or Acetone to clean up
  • Make sure you wear gloves to protect your hands
  • Wear a mask when using Acetone

If this is your first experience with epoxy coatings, experiment on a similar surface. This will keep you from making a big mistake.

Klear Kote Application Guide PDF

Klear Kote SDS PDF

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